ABOUT:
The CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR} is the newest CFDA program designed to support the next generation of fashion designers in New York City. The mission is to help grow and sustain the business of the 12 participating tenants over the course of the next two years. The CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR} will provide a creative professional environment to foster promising fashion talent, and help selected designers grow and sustain their business. By offering low-cost design studio space, business mentoring, educational seminars, and networking opportunities the program provides a way for participants to reach their full potential and become an integral part of the New York Fashion community.
DESIGNERS:
ALICE RITTER
• French-born Alice Ritter moved to New York 10 years ago, bought her first sewing machine and decided to follow her dream to become a designer. Determined to learn as much as possible about fashion, Alice tore apart vintage clothes to understand patternmaking, read as much as she could about fashion history and took night classes. She started making one-of-a-kind pieces, which old out within a week of arrival in a hip Brooklyn boutique.
• When contacted by GenArt to be part of the Fresh Faces in Fashion show, she stepped up and launched her ready to wear collection in 2006. Alice won a UPS Fashion Forward award and held her first solo fashion show at Bryant Park.
• Alice describes her style as “Feminine, romantic and bold. It’s French romantic meets Annie Hall. It is really the story of a French girl who lives in New York.”
BIBHU MOHAPATRA
• Born in the Indian state of Orissa, Bibhu Mohapatra showed an interest in fashion at an early age. His love for sumptuous Indian fabrics, vibrant colors, and the crafts of his native land have been the inspiration behind his elegant designs. In 1996 he moved to New York City to attend Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). He graduated one year later, having received the prestigious “Critic’s Award for Best Evening Wear Design.”
• In 1998, while at F.I.T., Bibhu was offered a position as an assistant designer at Halston. There he developed his design skills and in 1999, when Giles Mendel repackaged his label into a more youthful brand and expand into ready-to-wear, Bibhu was hired as Design Director to help realize the vision.
• Following the presentation of the Fall/Winter 2008 collection, Bibhu resigned from J.Mendel in order to establish his own label. He has now completed his third ready-to-wear collection under his namesake label.
GEMMA REDUX
• From a young age, Rachel Dooley was drawn to all types of creative expression. This included breaking glass in the garage to make stained glass mosaics. In her studies, she was drawn toward math and physics and eventually ended up focusing on mechanical engineering in college. After college, Rachel’s desire for analytical development lead her to law school. While taking a break from studying for the NY Bar Exam, Rachel made her first mixed metal necklace from vintage and industrial materials and GEMMA REDUX was born.
• Within months, GEMMA REDUX designs were showing up in leading fashion industry publications and appearing on TV and the Red Carpet.
• GEMMA REDUX pieces are never precious – the metals are generally not delicate, rather industrial, and the stones are rough and intense… intentionally tough and complex designs made for the tough and complex girl.
GREY ANT
• With a ten year history of working in the Costume industry, in 1998 Grant Krajecki took his insatiable drive to create clothing in a different direction. Launching his women’s wear collection that year proved to be the right move.
• Instinctively working in opposition to all expectations and trends, Grant, who goes under the nom de fashion “Grey Ant”, is consistently inconsistent in the best of ways. His reputation for fearlessly referencing all that’s off limits and for abundantly delivering the never before seen, has established Krajecki as more than just the designer to watch, but as a subversive force that’s responsible for creating his own market and establishing his own scene.
• Following the success of Grey Ant, the diffusion line “Grey Antics” was launched in the spring of 2010.
HOUSE OF WARIS
• Waris Ahluwalia is a pioneer among a new breed of craftsmen. With a passion for quality and beauty as well as a naturally creative spirit, Waris got started making jewelry for friends.
• While acting in Wes Anderson’s “The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou”, Waris fell in love with Rome. He was inspired by the city’s living history and the quality and attention to detail of its artisans. Tucked away in the old city, he discovered the perfect small workshop. Within six months, HOUSE OF WARIS had moved production from New York to Rome, where artisans with generations of experience in creating meticulously handcrafted jewelry now help make Waris’ unique and instinctive design philosophy become a reality.
• Waris, who is now based in New York, travels frequently to Rome and Rajasthan on a quest to preserve the methods of the Old World, working with the best in each city, from goldsmiths to diamond setters who once made the crests for royal families.
JOLIBE
• Joel Diaz was born in the Dominican Republic and at the age of 14 he began learning dressmaking techniques from his mother. He studied fashion design at Altos de Chavon School of Design in the DR, and moved to New York City after receiving a scholarship to study at Parsons School of Design.
• He worked with several designers before landing at Helmut Lang. During his five years there, he assisted Helmut Lang and focused on the development of innovative techniques and showpieces.
• Upon he departure, Joel put this valuable experience to use, directing his energies towards his own work while still consulting for various designers, including Patrick Robinson at Paco Rabanne (Fall 2006).
• In 2007 he opened JOLIBE with his partner, Christina LaPens, a photographer and art director. The Fall 2007 collection marked the debut of JOLIBE during Paris Fashion Week and has since been showing in New York.
PRABAL GURUNG
• Prabal Gurung was born in Singapore and raised in Kathmandu. It was in Delhi, India that his design career truly began to take off. While studying at New Delhi’s National Institute of Fashion Technology, he apprenticed at several local production and fashion houses and designed with Manish Arora. His transcontinental crossings provided the perfect base for unique experiences in the industry’s most eclectic fashion meccas.
• In 1999, Gurung moved to New York City. He began his career in New York interning for Donna Karan while attending Parsons School of Design. In his first year, he was awarded the “Best Designer” title at the annual Parsons/FIT design student competition.
• After Parsons, Gurung spent two years with Cynthia Rowley’s design team, which allowed him to gain invaluable experience in both design and business. Soon after, he became the Design Director at Bill Blass. After five successful years, Gurung left his post at Blass to launch his own collection.
• Prabal Gurung showed his first eponymous collection during New York Fashion Week in February 2009.
PUBLIC SCHOOL
• PUBLIC SCHOOL, the new-high end men’s young designer collection fuses the attitude of NYC with European tailoring and the thoughtfulness of Japanese streetwear. Created by fashion industry vets Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, PUBLIC SCHOOL is the new conspirator in the wave of young designers who unapologetically celebrate influences that span high and low fashion, art and culture. It’s also a direct reflection of the designers upbringing in NYC.
• The two NYC public-school graduates met while working on Sean Combs’s SEAN JEAN line (Chow was the Creative Director and Osbourne oversaw the wovens department), and discovered they shared a similar aesthetic. They pride themselves on being different, and consider themselves “teachers and students who construct garments that focus on fabric, fit and energy.”
RUBY KOBO
• A passion for world beauty combined with an urban sophistication has proved to be a winning marriage for the design duo behind RUBY KOBO, who balance their diverse backgrounds – Danna Kobo grew up in Hong Kong and New York, while Yuvi Alpert grew up in California and Tel Aviv. They share a congruent love of luxe materials and precise design, and bring to life a timeless and idiosyncratic jewelry collection.
• Together, their distinct creative styles make a perfect match – Danna’s ardor for elegant gemstones and Yuvi’s appreciation for natural materials The collection launched Holiday 2008 and has already developed a cult following.
• Following the debut of RUBY KOBO, Yubi and Danna realized they needed an outside source of investment to help facilitate the company’s growth, so the two launched a secondary line, Shashi, the profits of which have been re-invested into the original fine jewelry line.
SANG A
• Upon Sang A Im-Propp’s arrival in New York City, she found herself drawn to the world of fashion, and to hone her skills she enrolled at Parsons School of Design. In addition to her formal education, she gained experience through internships with high-profile stylists such as Victoria Bartlett and Lisa Von Weise. Eventually, Sang A decided to start her own business
• Sang A launched her collection of exotic skin and leather accessories in Spring 2006 to rave reviews. Her intricate and exceptional use of alligator, python, and ostrich skins, amongst others, quickly established her as a designer to watch in the luxury accessories market.
• In November 2007, Sang A was awarded the prestigious Samsung Fashion Design Fund Award in Seoul, South Korea.
• The SANG A collection has seen significant growth and success since its launch and continues to develop in innovative and exciting ways. The collection is available at specialty retailers worldwide including Neiman Marcus, Kirna Zabete NYC, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, as well as select boutiques in Europe, the Middle East and Asia.
SUBVERSIVE JEWELRY
• Designer Justin Giunta, has worked in different mediums for the past five years, ranging from painting, fashion, industrial design, and now jewelry, to create work that sits on the continuum of fine art and commercial design.
• Justin plays with the idea of the baroque philosophy that more is more, and the modern idea of deconstruction in fashion. SUBVERSIVE JEWELRY, a collection that has forged a unique niche in the international jewelry market, and is the culmination of Justin’s artistic and entrepreneurial efforts within the industry of design. Justin sites his influences as culled from an art historical perspective, mining the rich traditions from Europe, Asia, and Tribal aesthetics, as well as the design triumphs of 20th century modernists.
• Born and raised in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, he has studied at several art institutions including Pratt Institute and the Gerrit Reitveld Academie in Amsterdam. He received his Bachelor of Fine Arts degree from Carnegie Mellon University, and a fellowship from Yale University. In 2009, Justin won the Swarovski Award for Accessory Design at the CFDA Awards.
ELIGIBILITY:
INCUBATOR APPLICANTS MUST
- Be a designer of demonstrable talent, i.e. have garnered substantial editorial coverage,
and have support (orders) from top retailers;
- Be American or have established a primary design business in the United States;
- Be in business for a minimum of 1.5 years;
- Have professional staff, paid and/or volunteer, which can devote the time and effort that
are required to accomplish the stated aims of an applicant’s design career plans;
- Be able to occupy CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR} design studio space ; relocation expenses, if applicable, will be the responsibility of the tenant;
APPLICATION PROCESS:
Candidates were asked to provide specific information to support his/her application, including:
– A biographical statement, including a summary of the applicant’s design career;
– A business plan, including short-term and long-term business goals and objectives;
– Outline of existing business, including:
- Current organizational structure (employees/functions filled)
- Sales reports for the past three (3) seasons
- List of consultants, outside advisors and professional firms
- Current brand positioning, and where they envision their brand in the future
- Candidates were asked to submit a portfolio presentation containing work from their Spring and Fall collections, which included look books, sketches, editorial photos, ads, other press, etc.
- Candidates also submitted two (2) letters of recommendation from editors, retailers and other fashion industry professionals with whom they share a close, working relationship.
- Designers who advanced to the semi-finalist round of the selection process were asked to provide specific and comprehensive financial documentation to the landlord of the property, for final approval.
2012 – 2014 APPLICATION PROCESS
The application period for the 2012-2014 class is closed.
INDUSTRY SUPPORT:
SELECTION COMMITTEE
Designers were chosen by members of a Selection Committee and an Advisory Board, comprised of fashion industry experts, including retailers, editors, and business leaders. The Selection Committee assisted in the initial development of the initiative; evaluated applications, based on fashion relevance; assisted in selection of CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR} designers; will participate in bi-annual reviews.
- John Bartlett, JOHN BARTLETT
- Beth Buccini / Sarah Easley, KIRNA ZABETE
- Kevin Harter, BLOOMINGDALE’S
- Steven Kolb, CFDA
- Kate Lanphear, ELLE
- Kristina O’Neill, HARPER’S BAZAAR
- Roopal Patel, NEIMAN MARCUS
- Nicole Phelps, STYLE.COM
- Lisa Smilor, CFDA
- Peter Som, PETER SOM
ADVISORY BOARD
The Advisory Board evaluated applications based on a business model and plan, assisted in selection of CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR} tenants; will participate in quarterly reviews of tenants; assist in strategic planning / sponsorship / funding and other responsibilities as needed.
- Marc Beckman, DESIGNERS MANAGEMENT AGENCY
- Joseph Ferrara, FERRARA MANUFACTURING
- Eric Gural, NEWMARK KNIGHT FRANK
- Douglas Hand, HAND, BALDACHIN & AMBURGEY, LLP
- Karen Harvey, KAREN HARVEY CONSULTING GROUP
- Steven Kolb, CFDA
- Trey Laird, LAIRD+PARTNERS
- Seo Hyun Lee, CHEIL INDUSTRIES
- Barbara Randall, FASHION CENTER B.I.D.
- Lisa Smilor, CFDA
- Steven Strauss, NYCEDC
- Gary Wassner, HILLDUN CORPORATION
- Shan Reddy, REDLINE CONSULTING
- Andrew Ward, GIDC
BUSINESS MENTORS
The twelve participating designers receive business mentoring by leading industry experts. Each designer(s) is assigned a Business Mentoring “team” comprised of leading experts in areas included but not limited to: accounting, finance, legal, manufacturing, marketing, retail, branding, licensing and operations. {CFI} Business Mentor teams meet with designer(s) approximately once a month, and speak/correspond as needed between meetings.
- John Bartlett, JOHN BARTLETT
- Marc Beckman, DESIGNERS MANAGEMENT AGENCY
- Joseph Ferrara, FERRARA MANUFACTURING
- Mary Gleason, JUDITH LEIBER
- Douglas Hand, HAND, BALDACHIN & AMBURGEY, LLP
- Karen Harvey, KAREN HARVEY CONSULTING GROUP
- Beth Buccini & Sarah Easley, KIRNA ZABETE
- Roopal Patel, NEIMAN MARCUS
- Trey Laird, LAIRD+PARTNERS
- David Rees & Ron Anderson, TENTHOUSANDTHINGS
- Gary Wassner, HILLDUN CORPORATION
PROGRAM SPONSORS
- New York City Economic Development Corporation
- Newmark Knight Frank
PROGRAM SUPPORTERS
- GIDC
- Pucci Mannequins
- Redline Consulting
- SOHO House NY
- The Standard NY
- WGSN
CONTACT-
CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR}
209 W. 38th Street, 3rd Floor
New York, NY 10018
Johanna Stout
Manager: Fashion Incubator
J.Stout@CFDA.com
Lisa Smilor
Deputy Director: Programs and Operations
L.Smilor@CFDA.com